The Unforgettable Seductress - St Kilda
By Livia Cullen
 
At pink lacquer dawns
We stumbled indoors wafting
Perfume and smoke
Drifting lazy leisure
Bass sliding off palm leaves
Into concrete backyards

On hot Summer days
We sat legs dangling
Over the stone wall
Watched seagulls pedal for pipis
Threw our heads back
Faced the sun

Blissful Spring nights
We spent singing with crickets
Arms and legs splayed
Under canvas skies
Traced elephants in the stars
Smelt of sweat and cut grass

Autumn Ochre days
Watched the boats like icy-pole sticks
Buoyed up and down
By white-tipped choppy waves
Wind whipped the sand
Our gritty beds

Lazy Sunday afternoons
Made the Espy our home
Didn’t dare touch the Harleys
Played doubles in pool
Bad Boys Batacuda
Beat the Bongo drums

Pitch nights out prowling around
Luna Park’s mouth agape at
Wired busker’s corner tricks
Kebab slab meat at 3am
Our dripping chins made
Garlic whiskered kisses

Waking
She tilts her face to the pink lacquer dawn. Her eyes half closed she wakes slowly still drifting in the fog of her dreams. Inhaling deeply she savours her salty brine and slowly as the sky lightens she begins to come alive. Down by the pier fishermen sit like spiders, hunched at the edge, long stick legs unfolded into the icy blue. Moored boats crowd together, masts like icy-pole sticks, buoyed up and down by white-tipped choppy waves.

A lone fisherman sits at the end of the pier, his blue eyes pale and sun-bleached as his stiff blonde hair. His skin is leathery and worn; each line a testament to his love of the sun and his age as a result is a mystery. He wears a weathered black windbreaker like a second skin. Two gold rings encircle his fingers, one of them a wedding ring. His wife waits at home in a far away suburb. His heart belongs instead to this sweet seductress; this place he cannot tear himself away from. Every morning at dawn he sits at the pier seduced by the briny scent of her, slapped awake by the crispness of her first thing in the morning. He swears by the sea he will never give her up; his sweet mistress, St Kilda.

Basking in the Sun
At midday, with the sun smack bang in her face she sits snug on the bay. Her legs spread, palm fronds extended in offering, she rarely lets a passerby escape. Luna Park laughs from that great cavernous mouth at the trams sidling up the curve of The Esplanade, exposing the great expanse of glittering blue to the left. The old solider The Espy stands tall in the face of development as a hero to St Kilda’s checkered past. Facing west over the bay the floor to ceiling windows frame fluorescent orange sunsets. On a Sunday night Bad Boys Batacuda beat the bongo drums sending the rhythm riding on the wind.

Acland Street’s buttery scent wafts its way from the RSL to Jacqui O. Big Mouth shouts loud on the corner. Sugary pastries and oozing cakes gaze seductively out of shop fronts as ice-cream flavours bounce from Trampoline to Apple. Cafes, bars and restaurants are scattered like shells along the street and dance a tango with the fashion boutiques that sit between them. Outside Safeway, perched precariously on a tiled stump, sits an aboriginal man with his guitar. Stopping every now and again to swig from a brown paper bag, he belts out ‘Blister in the Sun’ in a loud cracked racket of a voice.

Behind Fitzroy St in a little flat on Jackson St, Linda Londrigan sips her tea and smokes a joint. She is dressed in a long chocolate-coloured velveteen dress patterned with quilt-like pieces of printed fabric and her hair is a tousled

  arrangement of auburn curls. In between sentences she takes long tokes on her joint and holds the smoke in her mouth as she talks. She is reminiscing about the old St Kilda when her and her friends would head down to the Sea Baths to Whiskey-A-Go-Go, a bar that has long since gone. There they’d watch Danny Le Roo, a female impersonator, perform, play pool and roll joints up the back. She remembers so much of what St Kilda used to be like; the people; the places. She also remembers watching it become gentrified but she doesn’t mind so much. These days she likes nothing more than to curl up on her well-worn green velvet couch with a cup of tea and a joint, telling stories to her visitors. Linda has a thousand stories and her visitors often stay for hours, riveted to her past. Occasionally, when it suits her, she reads their tarot cards weaving their past into their present.
 
Men have come in and out of Linda’s life over the years but she doesn’t need them. She is happy and alive and well and has St Kilda to keep her company. ‘We’re here for a good time, not a long time’ is her mantra. She still doesn’t know what she wants to be when she grows up.

Linda has lived in St Kilda almost all her life and she’ll be buried here if she can help it. She doesn’t venture across the river, not unless she has to and she’d never live anywhere else. Linda is as much a part of St Kilda as St Kilda is a part of her. It is a quilt-like piece of her very soul.

Her Dark Side
At night her darkest parts are shrouded in a cloak of black, dimly lit by seedy streetlights. Grey Street runs parasitically through her feeding on her like a tapeworm. Girls are scattered periodically along the street; skirts hitched, legs exposed, trying to make a dollar. Some nights in the early evening you can hear the Bongo drums from Voyeur Rhythmic and the girls pose and move to the beat.

On Fitzroy St a busker eyes wired wide tries to make a buck for his next hit of lui. His stereo pumps out rap as he maneuvers his BMX to twist and poise, theatrical as an acrobat. The neon lights of Seven Eleven give his pasty skin an unhealthy sheen, accentuating his black eyes and the dark circles around them. He becomes an eerie ghost-like form haunting the corner every Saturday night.

Opposite his regular post is Gatwick House, a safe haven to the local misfits. Sprawled on the pavement outside are a bunch of St Kilda winos. Although some can get the cash together to pay for a cheap room most prefer the concrete outside and a cask of wine. Most nights they crowd around the outside walls as if being in its proximity is safer somehow. On occasion there is shouting and violence but mostly they are harmless. They’re just looking for somewhere safe to spend the night.

Friday and Saturday nights the multitude of bars pump music into the street sucking patrons in and later spitting them back into the night where they linger on the streets buying kebabs, fighting and making out. Veludos, The Vineyard and Big Mouth keep Acland Street alive until the early hours while The Saint, The Prince and Metropol turn Fitzroy Street into a crazed sprawl of booze-fuelled patrons eating up the night.

In an art deco flat behind porthole windows Che Vogler is sailing his own ship. He is of German-Cyprian descent and has a large round face, ice blue eyes and a wild shock of ash blonde hair. His t-shirt reads, ‘Un Saison en enfin’ and his faded jeans sit low on his hips. He has several tattoos and is thinking about another; some sort of socialist symbolism to go with his name. Though he lived in New York for a while with his ex-girlfriend Gigi, he now lives on the Bay in a small art deco flat with his mate Jono and he doubts he’ll be leaving any time soon.

To Che, St Kilda is a playground. He goes out most nights, often all night and always on the weekends; to the Vineyard; to Mink Bar; to Prince, wherever takes his fancy. Che knows a lot of the bar and restaurant owners in St Kilda. Some nights he might spend drinking cocktails at the George. Others he spends playing pool at the Prince downstairs or ‘racking up’ at a mate’s place. He likes nothing better than a pricey bottle of red and a line of coke. He is no stranger to money and likes to live the high life. Recently he changed his credit card to a gold one. He likes the look of a gold card and what it represents. He has a girlfriend, well a sort-of girlfriend. He’s not monogamous and often there’s a different girl in his bed. To Che, St Kilda is the perfect vehicle to live life fast and furiously.

The Sum of All Her Parts
She is the sun smack bang in your face, reflecting off glittering blue. She is the sound of bongos riding on the wind. She is a kebab at 3am on a bustling corner and a late night late stumble to a stranger’s house. She is a haven, a hang out, a home. A mother, a lover, a whore. She is rough and elegant; wild and tame. She is an absolute contradiction in the most marvellous way. She is the unforgettable seductress; St Kilda.

     
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